We have just about cycled the first thousand Kms, I think my Odo is a little bit generous with this. But it neatly coincides with finishing our journey in the south.We started in Fukuoka, on Kyushu island, and set off following the cost to the west, finding our way to Nagasaki. This was hilly, hot and hard work, and it took me a whole day snoozing, in a warm showers host l garden, to recover. We then turned East over Unzen volcanic area, and on to Aso, a UNESCO rated geo park. This is the largest caldera in the world. I was expecting a desert, smoking and streaming landscape. But , while we we encircled by volcanic mountains, it was an area of normal settlement, roads, farms, industry and commerce. Our stay and modest work effort on an organic farm has been a highlight, meeting an inspirational family living a non materialistic lifestyle.
A splendid 30km down hill cruise took us to a ferry to be the Island of Shikoku.The way was much easier, some days all flat and coastal, and on to the much anticipated seven island bike route, and over 9 lovely bridges. This brought us to Honshu .Since then we followed the cost to Hiroshima. Visiting the famedPeace Park and museum is sobering. It is a modest and non commercial place, and inhabited by huge groups of well behaved and eager children. Part of their task was to try out their English and ask where we came from, then present us with an origami paper crane (bird not machine)We have had mostly sunny days, often muggy, and sometimes ending on huge rain.The highlights have definitely been the lovey, generous and fun people we have met.I have found the city's difficult, with out a centre or individuality. The sea coasts encased in concrete, with solid harbour wharfs and massive sea walls. Beaches seem undervalued, often messy and hard to access.But on to stage two, in the north, and these opinions might well be amended.
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